Held Hostage by Hippos

This weekend was the first time that we were able to get out of Mbarara to take a side trip, so we headed out to Queen Elizabeth National Park, a 1900 square kilometer park located in the western rift valley, sandwiched between the Rwenzori mountains and the eastern escarpment.

Instead of popping for the 300$/ night safari lodge (which was admittedly very nice, with a veranda extending out from the bar overlooking the park) we stayed at the hostel down the road, which was the best of both worlds. We could stay in the much cheaper (21$ per person with double rooms) location and still head down the road to the lodge if and when we wanted to sit and enjoy the view.

The hostel itself had a great cantina that served food as well for approx 5000 shillings (2.50$). Most of the rooms were set in a line parallel to the road, set back about 50 meters with a grassy sward between the rooms and the road. About 6 rooms were set in a line opening onto the yard, with bathrooms and showers in the middle. We had the end unit. It was a bit disturbing when we were putting our stuff in the room and heard all the scrabbling noises overhead, but as long as whatever it was stayed up there and out of the room, no problem. When we pulled up to the hostel, there was a resident family of warthogs wandering around the grounds, often going to wallow in the muddy ditch to the north side of the yard.

First day consisted of a game drive through the park, saw tons of waterbuck, birds, elephants, even a hippo out of water, which is unusual. As soon as we came in range of the elephants, the driver stopped the engine, since I guess they are more likely to charge if the engine is running, or maybe they just get disturbed and move away faster. Anyways, we were watching the elephants from the top of the van and another car comes careening down the road towards us (keep in mind it is a single track with ditches, mud and embankments to either side). Unable to pass, they parked themselves in front of us and started flashing their lights and trying to edge pass. They realized this was futile just as the elephant troop was crossing the road in front of us, and tried to reverse, almost into the troop! Our driver had to motion outside of the window urgently for them to stop the engine, but they didn’t listen. Luckily instead of angering the elephants into charging, it just caused them to move more quickly across the road. As soon as they were gone we, who were in a four wheel drive, pulled up and off to the side, allowing them to pass. I don’t think I would have the guts to take a little 2 wheel drive car onto a safari trek, since many of the roads are pretty bad after it rains, but oh well.

The next morning, I woke up as usual way too early. I heard a snuffling snorting sound behind the wall of the hostel room, with on occasional thumping against the wall. This had been going on for at least 30 minutes, and I had chalked it up to a warthog having an early morning meal. I went outside to head to the shower and peeked my head around the corner to see the warthog, only to find that it was actually a hippo, contentedly munching on the grass. I quickly ducked back around the corner and snuck past the other way to the shower. When I got done and headed back to the room, I could hear the snorting much more clearly, since his head was just around the corner from the room. I wasted no time in getting back into the room, and continued to hear the thumping of his tail slapping the side of the room. I will admit I did a stupid tourist thing and stuck my camera around the corner to try and get a picture (only got the red eye reflecting the flash). Angus, the other volunteer working here, brought up a very valid point later when he asked me if I thought that the wooden door of the hostel would actually stop an angry hippo. Probably not, but I was counting on it’s underdeveloped frontal lobe.

More game drives that day, with tons of antelope, several lions, a hyena, and many more water buck. Took a boat channel drive in the afternoon to see hippos in the water, crocodiles, water buffalo and tons of birds. Luckily Angus, the british cardiologist traveling with us, had a SLR camera and was able to take close up photos of many of the birds, much better than with my little canon digital. Definitely need to bring a better camera with a telescopic lens next time. After dinner at the cantina we headed down to the lodge for drinks on the balcony overlooking the valley, and were able to watch the lightning from a thunderstorm over the Rwenzori mountains to the northwest. Not a bad way to spend the evening.

Chimpanzee tracking the next morning down in the gorge. Luckily we happened upon them only about 15 minutes of walking around, and spent the next two hours circling through the brush trying to get ahead of the traveling troop. We were able to see quite a few in the trees, including the alpha male, but were unable to catch any on the ground.

Finally got back to Mbarara, hot and dusty, hoping for a nice shower. Unfortunately, we found out that the power had been out all weekend. The demand is high here in Uganda, and the supply is often lacking, since they only have (I think) two hydroelectric dams supplying the country. During certain periods, the power is deliberately shut off to one area to allow adequate power for another community, rotating around through the month. We did not know this, of course, and arrived to find that our icebox had completely melted and left a large puddle beneath the refrigerator. Luckily there was not really anything in there, so nothing was wasted except for an old avocado.

Hoofed it into town to restock, only to be caught out when the rain started. I am quite happy that I came during the rainy season; the savannah was green and lush and the temperature has been much more moderate than I expected. The rain, when it comes, only lasts for an hour or so and then stops. Overall, it has been great. However, it does rain profusely for that hour, and I was caught out in it without my rain jacket. Spent the time under an awning outside the bank getting to know a couple of local fellows that were also caught out. It was interesting to hear them talking about the US and Europe; many of them had no desire to travel to the US, but thought that it would be great to travel to Germany or France. I was also asked about the quality of steaks in Texas, since that is apparently what they are known for here. One of the guys worked for the power company and was able to explain the absence of power, which was nice.

By the time I got back to the guest house, the power was back on and we were able to whip up some rice and beans, followed by a much anticipated hot shower by me. I crashed into bed that night- we had been up late each evening and getting up extremely early to go on drives and travel to the chimpanzee gorge. I am looking forward to work today as a break.